kochinoya_editor 
My evening arrival into Kōchi Prefecture was coloured by the pink light of a beautiful sunset, and as I sat on the peaceful train to Aki, looking out over the ocean view, I settled into a quiet excitement at the thought of starting my new work placement at the city’s Hostel Kochi-no-ya. Reflecting on my experience now, this rosy first impression can be considered representative of my time in Aki – a month I found both fun and restful, where I formed new connections and enjoyed time surrounded by beautiful nature.
I am originally from Scotland, and was motivated to take a one year working holiday in Japan by my desire to explore the country at a slower pace, to improve my Japanese, and to forge new friendships. My time at Kochi-no-ya coincided exactly with the halfway point of my working holiday, wherein the previous six months I had enjoyed helping out at hostels and guesthouses across Japan. At Kochi-no-ya, I was able to work based on a ‘free accommodation’ basis where, in exchange for a few hours of work a day, I was able to stay inside the beautiful accommodation — a traditional Japanese kominka house — at no cost. The work involved cleaning the guesthouse for a couple of hours in the morning, and helping with some of the check-ins.
The guesthouse is located on Shikoku’s Ohenro Pilgrimage trail, which means a large portion of Kochi no Ya’s guests are pilgrims, very ready to rest their legs at the end of a long day’s hike; you can recognise them by their straw sedge hats and the gentle sound of the ringing bell attached to their walking cane. The hostel also welcomes many foreign guests, meaning English language ability is helpful, but I enjoyed the opportunity to practice my Japanese. Kochi-no-ya’s lounge doubles as a bar three nights a week, and hosts cafes and other pop-up events, too, meaning there are plenty of opportunities to have fun chatting with the friendly local people, perhaps over a cup of local sake or a cocktail made from buntan, a delicious pomelo variety native to the prefecture.
A former silk merchant’s home, Kochi-no-ya is an 80 year old traditional building which has been carefully restored by the owner, Azumi san. It retains many of charming original architectural features, like tatami flooring and sliding shōji doors, but with thoughtful updates to modernise the space. The atmosphere was instantly welcoming, a homey space filled with cut flowers and with bookshelves stacked with books from the rental library which operates out of the hostel, Umi no Toshokan. My time at the hostel felt relaxed, the work gratifying for how it helped guests to enjoy their stay at the place which was, for the time, my home away from home. A typical day involved cleaning rooms after guest check out, washing and hanging the laundry in the yard, and making sure the hostel was tidy and ready for the arrival of new guests. I received guidance from the staff, who were always on hand to provide assistance.
Whilst it has modern amenities, Aki is a city with a nostalgic feel, ideal for those looking to experience neighbourhood life. Bicycles, including e-bikes, are available to rent free of charge from the train station and tourist information center; I spent a few afternoons taking a leisurely cycle around town – leisurely being the operative in the case of the e-bikes. There are supermarkets nearby, but you can also shop for delicious locally-grown produce at the market by the train station, or even at a roadside stall, where I paid ¥100 for five of the best aubergine I have ever tasted. You can visit the birthplace of Iwasaki Yatarō, the founder of Mitsubishi, and see the original Mitsubishi logo, based on the Iwasaki family crest, on the side of the thatched-roof building. To journey back even further, walking through a traditional samurai house in the old Doi district really gives the sense of stepping back into feudal Japan – or if your preference is for something older still, take a wander through Ioki Cave, formed naturally by the sea millions of years ago. The walls of the cave are studded with fossils and the bamboo grove on the other side looks like scenery straight out of Princess Mononoke.
The nearest big city is Kōchi, which can be reached in an hour by train. It’s a vibrant city with a walkable center and plenty of great places to eat, shop or grab a coffee. The city is famous for its Sunday Market, which has a 300 year old history and is Japan’s largest open-air market. Spanning 1.3km along the palm-tree-lined road in front of Kōchi castle, the market is packed with stalls selling fresh local produce, street food, flowers, antiques and local crafts. I picked up a portion of local favourite beloved imoten – fluffy bites of fried sweet potato – as well as some of delicious inaka sushi, traditional Kōchi vegetable sushi, flavoured with yuzu rather than fish to allow the vibrancy of the vegetables to shine through. A visit to the Makino Botanical Garden is well-worth the bus trip up the mountain, and there are plenty of galleries and museums to wander on a rainy afternoon, not to mention the castle, which is one of the last twelve original castles in Japan.
This portion of my working holiday has been so valuable to me: an opportunity to cultivate friendships, to become immersed in a new community and to enjoy local life. As my month at Kochi-no-ya comes to a close, I feel happy at the sense of connection I have developed to this place, and certain that my upcoming departure won’t mark my last time in Aki.
